GROWING CRAZE FOR HARNESSES
Fet*ish and fashion have long coexisted. Menswear has a history of referencing ki*nk culture, even though womenswear has perhaps produced the most iconic examples of sex-inspired clothing over the years — from Christian Dior and Roger Vivier's popularization of tight lacing and stilettos in the 1950s to Versace's revolutionary Miss S & M collection in 1992 and beyond. Fet*ish has recently, and perhaps unexpectedly, made its way into the realm of streetwear, resulting in a growing craze for harnesses, and we at METATRON atelier couldn't be happier!
Focusing on the harness's other major feature—aside from its BD*SM function—that it's made to look good—is crucial at this point.
Adidas Black Jeremy Scott Bo*ndage Leather Jacket Moschino Fall 2018
The harness can be linked to the post-World War II biker culture-inspired homosexual leather scene that emerged in the 1960s in several American and European cities, including Berlin, Amsterdam, and San Francisco. But the harness didn't take over as a staple of fe*tish clothing until the 1980s. According to Noah Barth, harnesses first start to crop up in mass in photos of contenders for the annual leatherman contest Mr. International Leather in 1983 and their role in a bo*ndage environment involves suspension, restraint, and the ability to pull on someone or lead them.
Richard Quinn fall-winter 2022-2023
Focusing on the harness's other major feature—aside from its BD*SM function—that it's made to look good—is crucial at this point. According to BD*SM experts, harnesses are purely aesthetic objects. They don't keep you warm or protect your body, unlike other leather clothing. Many are worn to frame and showcase the figure, whether over bare flesh or over clothing. Some are made for bo*ndage. They are therefore highly provocative and shamless.
It started out in the BD*SM culture's submissive world and developed into a distinct look.
STROM harness by METATRON
Undoubtedly, the harness's greater sartorial appeal lies in its shape-enhancing design and risqué undertones. When Vivienne Westwood worked with San Francisco-based fet*ish store Mr. S. Leather to create the punk-styled BD*SM-inspired clothing she stocked in her Kings Road Sex boutique in the middle of the 1970s, she was one of the first designers to introduce the harness and other bo*ndagewear to a larger audience. Punks, steampunks, and goths all quickly adopted the style, according to Dr. Frenchy Lunning, author of Subcultural Fashion: Fet*ish Style (2013). It started out in the BD*SM culture's submissive world and developed into a distinct look.
Michael Jackson, 1993
In the 1990s, designers like Marc Jacobs, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Thierry Mugler, and others gave women's clothing a ki*nky edge by using a lot of leather, PVC, and binding, which had an empowering impact. During the same decade, Michael Jackson performed at the 1993 Super Bowl wearing a gold, military-style harness, solidifying the item's status in popular culture. Madonna used Jean Paul Gaultier's strap-adorned fet*ishwear during her 1990 Blond Ambition World Tour.
Madonna by Terry Richardson, 2013 Madonna in Jean Paul Gaultier, 1990, Cordon Press
“harnesses have come into mainstream fashion alongside a growing culture of sexual discourse and alternative relationship structures.”
The harness didn't appear on the male runway until the 2000s, most notably in Helmut Lang's Spring 2002 collection of perfectly fitted suit pants with white harnesses over bare chests and Fall 2003 collection with black strapping between shirts and suit jackets.
Michael B. Jordan wears Louis Vuitton harness, TIME
Influential celebrities including Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, and Rhianna have all embraced the harness trend in recent years, donning the provocative yet seductive creations of "post-fet*sh wear" while performing live. But what makes harnesses a particularly intriguing symbol of our times is how designers like Alboh and Williams have incorporated them within the context of regular streetwear. According to Rachel Zilberg, harnesses have come into mainstream fashion alongside a growing culture of sexual discourse and alternative relationship structures, in its most recent incarnation.
Helmut Lang 2003
Harnesses have grown in appeal among men and women outside the Leather and BD*SM groups in recent years. Using a harness is a fairly simple and portable technique to give an otherwise uninteresting outfit a ki*nky edge. They offer a safe approach to experiment with the leather look.
Heliot Emil, FW 2022/23
When it comes to men's clothing, the present trend speaks volumes about just how fluid, adventurous, and open-minded men are becoming when it comes to our attire. Will the accessory stay? That remains to be seen, but for now it seems like a positive indication that the menswear scene that hasn't always been known for its progressive views on sex and gender is on the right track.
METATRON is here to supply premium quality restraints, harnesses and other play equipment for both beginners and experienced players and to contribute to a responsible, safe and enjoyable practice.
In case we missed something, any recommendations are welcome; we eagerly await your observations and opinions.
